Making Your Own Burble-Meter

*NOTE*...If you want to build one for your own personal use, that's fine...but don't try to lay claim to it on your website, or try to claim it was your creation and put your own name on it.

I know of a few out there that are doing just that.

Be honest, and give credit where credit is due. Plagiarism and Bullsh*tting isn't the way to start out your new groups...

Ok, you've read the articles and decided to give it a shot. Don't be afraid, its not as complicated as it sounds. Just go slow, take your time, step-by-step. If you get a headache and need to walk away from it for a while, that's ok too...You've got all the time in the world.

I'm going to try make it as painless as possible for you.

You will need some tools, as this isn't a snap-together model. I realize not everyone has the same tools that I do, so I'll try to give you ideas how to get by without a specific tool in each phase.

Handy Tools To Have:

1) Soldering Iron...A regular ol' basic soldering iron is fine. Do not use one of those "Cold Heat" things, they don't work very well in tight places. (trust me)

You'll also need solder, a small sponge.

2) Screw Driver, Power Driver, Drill... You'll need a small Phillips Head screw driver for the screws in the Project Box and to fasten the antenna. You'll also need assorted size Drill Bits for the holes in the box to accommodate the Switch, LED, and antenna.

3) Small Round File...The Drill Bits will be just a tad too small, so you might have to gently file out the holes to the proper correct fit.

4) Dremel...With a Cutting Wheel, this is handy for cutting and shaping the PC Board to fit securely into the box.

5) "Third Hand"...This is a handy device for holding your PC Board. You can pick one up at Radio Shack for a few bucks.

6) Needle Nose Pliers and small Wire Cutters... For bending the antenna, and snipping off excess wires.

7) Sharp Knife, X-acto-Knife...For stripping wires and/or cutting the PC Board if you don't have access to a Dremmel. BE CAREFUL!

8) Sandpaper...For fine shaping the cut PC Board to fit into the box.

9) Drill Guide...Comes in handy for sizing the holes you'll need to drill.

10) Clamp...To hold the PC Board to the surface of your work area.

11) Pencil, Ruler, T-Square...For marking the holes on the box.

12) Metal Coat Hanger...It won't be pretty, but this will serve as the external antenna.

Parts You'll Need:  (I Love Radio Shack)

For this particular demonstration, we'll use a small box.

1) Project Enclosure - #270-1802, 4x2x1"...$2.69

2) General Purpose PC Board - #276-149...$1.79

3) SPST Mini-Toggle Switch - #275-324...$2.99

4) 9 Volt Battery...$3.29

5) 5mm LED...$1.29 (pkg. of two) I like the green ones personally, you can use whatever color you prefer.

6) MPF102 Field Effect Transistor - #276-2062...1.29

7) 12VDC Piezo Mini Buzzer (optional) - #273-074

We'll be installing an audible alarm in this one. Its up to you if you want one or not.

Getting Started:

Alrighty...We have all our tools, we have all our parts, we took a deep breath, we're ready to take the plunge...Lets go...HOPEFULLY you've already read and tried the BASIC design on the "What If..." page, so you'll have an idea how the components go together and work.

Its a good idea to make everything separately...PC Board, Box, PC Board soldering, then the final assembly...

First Step...Preparing the PC Board:

You need to cut the PC Board to size, so it will fit into the box. Use the cardboard from the packaging as your template.

Line up the edges in the slots inside the box, and mark the cardboard. Cut along the lines, and ensure a good fit.

Once you have the sides, mark along the top of the slot ridge, and cut. Insert the cardboard into the slots, and check it to make sure the lid of the box will close with no problem.

Now you have the size you'll need for your PC Board.

Its ok if you mess up the template the first couple times, you'll have plenty of packages to work with.

Hold the cardboard template tightly onto the PC Board, and mark along the top edge.

Clamp it to the edge of the table or bench you're working at.

If using the Dremel to cut the PC Board, wear a dust mask or bandana over your nose and mouth...the dust is killer!!...If you don' have access to a Dremel, a hacksaw blade works really well, or use a ruler to score along the line with a sharp sturdy knife. You'll have to do this several times, to get a good straight line...BE CAREFUL!!! Once you get a good deep score along the line, brace it along the line on the edge of the table and snap it off evenly. Watch your eyes!! Little bits of shrapnel can fly off as well. Its ok if the PC Board is slightly too big. You can fine adjust it with the sandpaper. Hold the Sandpaper down, and gently rub the board's edge until the proper fit is achieved.

The PC Board will be tight fit on the sides, so a little gentle sanding on the edge will shape it nicely...NOT TOO MUCH or TOO LITTLE...You don't want the sides of the box to bow out, or the PC Board to bend, but you don't want it to flop around either.

Your PC Board is now ready...Set it to the side for now.

Second Step...Preparing the Box:

The PC Board will be going into the first set of slots inside the box.

On the outside, you can see lines from the inner slots. We'll use these as our guides.

Freehand lines between the two outside lines with the pencil, then use a ruler or T-Square to get a nice straight line. Mark lines on the first and middle set of slots.

Go corner to corner between the lines, and mark it with an X. This will be your center point.

Take a nail, scribe, awl, or something sharp and pointy, and poke a mark in the center of the X. BE CAREFUL!! This is where the hole for the switch will go.

Take the Switch out of the package, and remove all the hardware...nuts and washers.

Using the Drill Guide, match up a hole that fits.

For this particular switch, use a 1/4" drill bit. Use a SMALLER bit first for a pilot hole. This will help prevent any slips, and mess up the hole. Keep the drill straight, or else the hole will end up oblong.

Put the flat washer on the switch, then insert the toggle into the hole from the inside. Put on the lock washer and a nut...just finger tight, so that the short post on the switch is toward to bottom of the box. This was just to try it for size, remove the switch and put it aside.

Put the lid on the box, and mark it in the same places as you did on the sides. Mark across the top, and go corner to corner again to find the center.

This is where the hole will go for the LED. Using a 3/16" bit is "close enough". Unless you have metric drills, then use the right one. Drill this on a block of wood, as to not mar the surface of your table/bench.

This is where the small round file comes into play. Gentley go around the edge AS EVEN AS POSSIBLE, until the LED fits...not too tight, not too loose, juuuuuust right.

Ok, the box is finished for now. We'll drill the holes for the antenna later, when we're ready, and see where it will be after the PC Board is completed and installed.

Assembling The PC Board:

First, lets have a brief lesson in very basic Electronics for the novices out there. This will give you a better understanding of the components.

Electricity has to flow, just like water. That's why its called current.

When the components are installed correctly, the current will flow through each, making a complete circuit. When a circuit is incomplete, that means either there is a break in the flow, a component is faulty, or something is hooked up incorrectly. The electrical current can not flow to complete the circuit.

Each part has a positive and a negative terminal. Positive marked (+) and Negative marked (--) just like on the battery.

Everything will be hooked up as positive-negative-positive-negative-positive-negative.

Ok...Ready?

Install the your PC Board into the box, with the metal dots backward.

Hold the LED with the SHORT lead on the left-hand side. The short lead is the neagtive.

Bend the leads evenly at a right angle, and position them into the second row, center, of the PC Board.

Place the lid on the box until the LED comes up through the hole. This is where the LED will be soldered onto the board.

Plug in your Soldering Iron, and give it about ten minutes to heat up. BE CAREFUL!!!! For those that have never soldered before, don't panic it isn't Brain Surgery, its quite easy actually and you'll have fun doing it. Just remember THEY ARE EXTREMELY HOT. Do not set it down where you can knock it off the table, or put your arm on it accidentally. ONLY HOLD IT BY THE HANDLE, DO NOT TOUCH THE METAL PART.

Most come with a small stand...USE IT. You'll need a small wet sponge also. This is for wiping the tip off after every application. This is necessary so the tip of the iron won't get all crudded up and malfunction.

Use the left over PC Board, and make a few practice solders first. You don't need a ton of solder on one connection...Just a dollop is all it takes.

Once you're satisfied that you can do this with confidence, its time to go for it...

Ready?

With the PC Board in the box, and the LED positioned correctly with the hole in the lid, tack the leads of the LED to the PC Board. This will hold them in place until you take it out, and give it a better connection.

There are good solder joints and there are bad solder joints. make sure you have good ones, or else the current will be disrupted.

Install the switch, and put the battery connector onto a battery, and put it in the box. I like these small boxes, because the battery wedges into the screw posts and holds it secure.

With the battery connector pointing to the left, pull the RED wire over to the short post of the switch, and mark it just at the base of the switch. Mark off about 2" of the BLACK wire, and pull it over to the PC Board. Cut the wires at your marks, and SAVE the remaining wire.

Take your knife, and gently roll about 1/4" from the ends of the wires, and remove the plastic insulation. Don't go too hard or deep, or else you'll cut into the wire.

Twist the ends of the wires, and solder the RED wire to the short post of the switch. Solder a piece of the extra BLACK wire you cut off earlier, to the longer post of the switch.

CAREFULLY remove the FET Transistor from the package. DO NOT touch the metal legs!! These are very sensitive to static electricity, and the static from your own body can fry it. Hold it down by the black top, flat side down, and bend the left leg  to the side and up. Spread the right leg away from the center leg. Use a small INSULATED screwdriver or your fingernail.

The left leg is the ANTENNA.

Now...Here's where it gets tricky...I take it back about being like surgery.

The placement of the FET is important, because it has to fit, and still be able to hook up to the external antenna.

With the flat side up, place the FET with the outer leg next to the longer leg of the LED. Solder the FET at both leads. This time its ok to "glob" the solder between the FET and LED so that the two parts are now connected. Not too much though, just a dollop on each connection, then one more in between.

Since we're installing an audible alarm in this one, snip off the excess wire from the LED, and place the alarm with the POSITIVE terminal next to the shorter leg of the LED. The Positive marked by the (+). "Glob" between the alarm and the LED to connect them. Snip off the excess wire from the FET.

Measure off the BLACK wire from the switch, and cut it short enough to reach the hole next to the middle leg of the FET on the PC Board. Strip the end, twist the wires, and solder it in the hole. This is rough, so here's a neat little trick. Put a dab of solder on the hole first. Hold the wire to it with needle-nose pliers while you melt the solder. When the solder is molten, stick the wire through the hole. "Glob" between the BLACK wire and the leg of the FET, connecting them.

It should look like this.

Put everything back into the box, and connect the battery to ONE terminal. We're checking for size and fit.

Ok, we have enough BLACK wire from the Battery terminal to reach the NEGATIVE post of the alarm. Take it all apart again, and solder the wire to the post, and connect them together with a "glob".

There it is...The Board is finished!! (whew!)...

Test it out. Hook up the battery, switch it on, wait a minute or two, and wave your hair at the FET leg antenna or go by the TV set. If it beeps and the LED comes on, go reward yourself!! If it comes on and doesn't go out after a few seconds, or if you wave your hair at it, and it only gets quieter, then the FET is trashed. It should beep for a few seconds, then go out. It should only beep when you wave your hair at it or it come near a source of static electricity, such as the TV screen.

(*NOTE* see the Burble Improvements page for a better antenna)

Now for the hard part...Fabricating the antenna. Radio Shack is getting pretty scarce with good antennae, so we're going to have to make one. It will still work, don't panic.

There are thick wire coat hangers and thin ones. If you can find a thin one, use it.

Cut the hanger, here and here, and straighten it out as best you can.

Fold it in the middle, and squeeze it together until it matches the slots on the end of the box where the PC Board will be.

Measure about a 1/4" from the bottom of the box, and mark between the slot lines.

Find an appropriate size drill bit for your wire, and bore the holes.

Insert the wire, and loop one end so that it fits over the inner mounting post. You'll need to scrounge up a short screw somewhere. If its too long, you'll go through the bottom of the box...We don't want to do that. After snugging up the screw on the mounted loop, cut off some of the excess wire on the other side, so it doesn't touch the PC Board.

Bend the antenna leg down, so it rubs against the wire antenna. Make sure there is good contact...Do Not Solder...You need for it to come apart so you can change the battery.

Start the screws in the lid mounting posts, and run them down. This will thread them, and make putting the lid on easier. Make sure they go in straight, or the post will crack.

Guess what!!!...You're ready for the final assembly!!!

 Don't forget the washer for the inside of the switch, and the lock washer for the outside. Hold it with your thumb and snug it down with pliers...not tooooo tight, don't crack the box, or break the switch. Screw on the lid, and there you have it!!

Take your pick of color switch caps if you'd like, or go chrome...

Congratulations!! You're now the proud owner of your very own gen-u-ine Burble-Meter!

Now clean up that mess!!...AND DON'T FORGET TO UNPLUG THE SOLDERING IRON!!!

Save your scrapes and leftovers. I have a better antenna plan, but its too large to add here. See that section when you're ready for the antenna.

~~~copyright 2006 Dr. Ken

None of this material may be used
without the written consent of Dr. Ken